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A Glazed & Amused thread

The Fastnacht Line

German bakeries from Philadelphia to Louisville.

The German filled doughnut has a different name in every region. Berliner in the north, Krapfen in Bavaria and Austria, Kreppel in Hesse, Pfannkuchen in Berlin itself, and in the American Midwest, a bismarck. The earliest known jelly-filled recipe is in a Nuremberg cookbook from 1485.

Fastnacht means the eve of the fast. In southern Germany the day before Ash Wednesday was for using up the lard, sugar and butter before Lent, and the doughnut was how you did it. German immigrants carried the word and the custom to Pennsylvania, where it became Fastnacht Day, and then along the roads west.

This trail stays out of Lancaster County, which has its own. It follows German immigrant family bakeries instead: a Bavarian who opened in Philadelphia twelve days after his wedding, a Thuringian who sold doughnuts from an alley in Hagerstown, a Black Forest farm boy fired from a Columbus bakery who built his own, a Swiss village in West Virginia that burns Old Man Winter at midnight. In Louisville the line ends in a neighborhood called St. Joseph, where the Germans settled and the bakeries stayed.

We work until there is no more dough.

When to go

Fastnacht Day 2027 is Tuesday, February 9. Haegele's sells fastnachts on two days only (Monday orders, Tuesday from 5 a.m.). Krumpe's opens its window at 7 a.m. for two days. Resch's sells its filled doughnuts from early February through Mardi Gras. Helvetia's Fasnacht is the Saturday before Ash Wednesday. Nord's and Plehn's are year-round.

Where they are

Rolling out the map…

Positions are approximate.

The bakeries

  • Haegele's Bakery

    4164 Barnett St, Philadelphia, PA (Mayfair) · since 1930

    August Haegele came from Germany in 1927, married Helen Gildein on June 25, 1930, and opened the bakery twelve days later. By 2015 the Inquirer counted four generations in one building, including master baker Richard, born in a bedroom above the store.

    The fastnacht here is a lightly fried, diamond-shaped doughnut dusted with cinnamon or powdered sugar, sold two days a year around Fat Tuesday. About 2,000 white boxes go on order a month ahead. Staff wear German dresses, German music plays, and hundreds wait in line.

    Known for: Two-day-a-year German fastnachts

  • Bredenbeck's Bakery

    8126 Germantown Ave, Philadelphia, PA (Chestnut Hill) · since 1889

    Robert Bredenbeck emigrated from Germany and opened the first Bredenbeck's in Northern Liberties in 1889, baking only bread. The Boyd family took the name and recipes in the 1950s, and Karen Boyd Rhode has run the Chestnut Hill shop for decades.

    On Fat Tuesday 2024 it sold fastnachts in nine kinds, plain, jelly and Boston cream among them, and urged pre-orders.

    Known for: 1889 German bakery, nine fastnacht kinds

    Written about, not listed. A general bakery and ice cream parlor, so it lives on this trail rather than in the listings.

  • Krumpe's Do-Nuts

    912 Maryland Ave, Hagerstown, MD · since the 1930s

    Rudolf Krumpe was born in 1894 near Rudolstadt, Germany, and came to America shortly before the First World War. His recipe and his original machine started the family business in the early 1930s. Great-grandson Max owns it now; his father Fred still helps fry. The shop sells from an alley window, 7 to 11 at night.

    Fastnacht Day is the exception. Krumpe's opens at 7 a.m. for two days and sells spiced fastnachts that are never otherwise on the menu. One year it ordered 5,000 extra pounds of flour and 6,000 of sugar for the run. "I wanted to keep history going," Max says.

    Known for: Night-window doughnuts, two-day fastnachts

    See the listing →

  • The Hütte, Helvetia Fasnacht

    Main intersection, Helvetia, WV

    Swiss immigrants founded Helvetia in 1869. Eleanor Mailloux opened the Hütte restaurant in 1967 and revived Fasnacht for the town's centennial two years later. The gold chalet is the town's only restaurant and serves a Swiss-German feast of bratwurst, sauerkraut and parsley potatoes.

    The fried dough here is older than any bakery on this trail: rosettes fried on an iron and hozablatz, thin sugared rectangles that should be "thin enough to read a newspaper through." A masked lamp-lit parade, square dancing and a midnight bonfire for Old Man Winter follow.

    Known for: Swiss Fasnacht, rosettes and hozablatz

    Written about, not listed. A Swiss village festival and restaurant rather than a doughnut shop. It holds the trail's name in its oldest form.

  • Resch's Bakery

    150 N Hamilton Rd, Gahanna, OH · since 1912

    Wilhelm Resch grew up on a farm outside Niederwinden, Germany, immigrated in 1906, and learned baking at Berkey's in Columbus with his uncle Frank. After Berkey fired them both, they pooled their money and built the first Resch's on Livingston Avenue in 1912. In fall 2025 the bakery moved to a much larger space in Gahanna.

    An honest note: Resch's calls its Fat Tuesday doughnut a pączki, the Polish cousin, filled with lemon, strawberry, blueberry or chocolate and sold through Mardi Gras. The German founders are verified; the German name for the item is not. Year-round the case runs to stick doughnuts and Granny Rolls.

    Known for: 1912 German bakery, Fat Tuesday filled doughnuts

  • Nord's Bakery

    2118 S Preston St, Louisville, KY

    Mike Nord grew up in Louisville's St. Joseph neighborhood, settled by German immigrants in the early 1900s, admiring the cakes at what was then Klein's Bakery on Preston Street. He bought it when the Kleins retired, and it has traded as Nord's since 2002.

    Food & Wine named it Kentucky's best doughnut. The big sellers are the maple bacon long john and the buttercream-filled Holland Cream, and at the holidays the shop bakes German-style kuchen cookies. The tie here is the neighborhood and the German bakery it inherited.

    Known for: Maple bacon long john, Holland creams

  • Plehn's Bakery

    3940 Shelbyville Rd, Louisville, KY (St. Matthews) · since 1924

    Kuno Plehn emigrated from Kiel and opened on Shelbyville Road in 1924, adding ice cream in 1927. He sold to his nephew Bernie Bowling Sr. in 1945; Bowling's sons took over in 1980, then their children, the family's fourth generation.

    The case still runs German: Danish, doughnuts, coffee cakes and kuchen beside cakes and breads. It marked its centennial in July 2024. Pair it with Nord's for a two-stop Louisville finish.

    Known for: Century-old Kiel-founded bakery

    See the listing →

The name changes every hundred miles. The doughnut doesn't. Find a shop near you and ask what they call it.

Or search the directory

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