On Hanukkah, you eat fried food. The oil recalls the holiday's miracle: one night's oil burning for eight.
A sufganiyah is a jelly doughnut. The name comes from Talmudic words for spongy dough. An early German cookbook describes jam fried between two rounds of bread, and the idea spread: krapfen in Austria, Berliner in Germany, ponchik among Polish Jews, who fried them in oil or schmaltz to keep them kosher.
Israel made them the Hanukkah food. Starting in the 1920s, the Histadrut labor federation promoted doughnuts over latkes. Anyone could make latkes at home. Doughnuts needed a paid baker. Today Israelis eat around 18 million over the holiday, and Israeli immigrants had brought them to American bakeries by the 1970s.

